Shipping Blues? Here’s Good News!

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Paul Ash goes through the ups and downs of a journey aboard the sail training vessel Picton Castle, making a case for everyone to embark on a sea adventure at least once, as published on Business Day.

Journey to the West

The author, Paul Ash, finds himself aboard the sailing ship Picton Castle on a tumultuous journey off the West Coast. Despite his lack of experience and injuries, he is determined to embrace this new world. Most of the crew has been on board for months or even years, while Paul is a new trainee. Captain Daniel Moreland assigns him to the 4-to-8 watch, which becomes his regular duty.

Feels like a lightning conductor

In the midst of a thunderstorm, the author joins their watchmates on the afterdeck of Picton Castle, where the ship feels like a lightning conductor. The captain, a commanding figure, observes from a corner while the leading seaman advises the author to watch and learn. As a newcomer among experienced crew members, the author compares their situation to being the new kid at school. The Picton Castle, originally a trawler and later a minesweeper during World War II, was transformed into a three-masted barque by Captain Daniel Moreland. His vision was to offer sail-powered voyages around the world, and after numerous circumnavigations and extensive mileage, the ship continues to fulfil that purpose.

Read the ‘Cape Horn Breed’

Captain Moreland’s vision for Picton Castle revolves around sailing the trade winds, providing the kind of sailing experience that old sailors dreamed of. Unlike the treacherous routes around Cape Horn or the Southern Ocean, the ship’s voyages are characterized by easy days in tropical regions, where the winds guide their course with minimal adjustments to the rig. Captain Moreland encourages the crew to read “Cape Horn Breed,” a harrowing tale of a coal-laden square rigger struggling to round Cape Horn. He emphasizes that such hardships are not part of their journey. While the ship incorporates modern navigation aids, survival suits, and an engine, the work on board remains true to the age of sail. Hemp ropes, salt-stiff canvas sails, and human-powered winches are the norm. When it’s time to adjust sails or change direction, most crew members ascend to the heights, using their physical strength to manoeuvre the sails while receiving commands from the mates below.

Shipboard life

The author’s introduction to shipboard life is eventful and vibrant. They witness the chief engineer’s intense battle with clogged pipes, resorting to extreme measures of dragging them out of the ship and cleaning them on the dock, much to the surprise and disturbance of onlookers. Simultaneously, the breezeway head, one of the three toilets for the crew, is causing issues due to the improper disposal of wet wipes. During a muster, the skipper reminds everyone not to flush wet wipes, leading to pointed stares among the crew. Later, the author encounters the second mate, who is struggling with the clogged toilet and is covered in greasy residue. Seeking revenge, she humorously instructs the newcomers on how to steer the ship by giving the helm a playful half-turn.

Cleaning duties 

During the author’s turn at the helm, they make an error and swing the ship off course, much to the skipper’s dismay. The second mate, likely responsible for the earlier revenge, smiles at the situation. However, the author’s watchmates, experienced sailors, remain patient and understanding. The 4-to-8 watch offers the opportunity to witness beautiful sunrises over the Atlantic while the rest of the ship sleeps. The watch begins by tightening slack halyards and sheets, followed by a thorough inspection of the ship’s water levels and dark corners. Cleaning tasks commence at 6 am, including swabbing decks and removing salt from the steelwork. The author tries to find Zen in the process of cleaning rust patches off the steel with a sponge and Vim. However, the most enjoyable part of the morning watch is the time spent as a forward lookout before sunrise and before the cleaning duties commence.

Healing and enchanting moment

Nicole, seeking solace after writing a challenging memoir, finds solace and perfection in standing watch as the ship sails through the sea. The experience of being the sole person at the bow, surrounded by stars and the captivating Milky Way, proves to be a healing and enchanting moment for her. The author also discovers their own Zen moment during a forward lookout, despite their rib injury and initial challenges onboard. They have gained acceptance from the captain, successfully performed various tasks, and found happiness despite the difficult conditions. After a short voyage, the author disembarks in Luderitz while Nicole continues her journey to St Helena. Months later, the author receives a postcard from Nicole, revealing how the ship becomes a close-knit community that envelops everyone who departs. Presently, the Picton Castle sails in the Caribbean towards the Panama Canal on its eighth circumnavigation. In the future, it will dock at the Waterfront, attracting tourists and recruiting a new crew, carrying on its legacy as a remarkable vessel from another era.

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Source: Business Day